Damp and water damage can take a serious toll on your home and lead to major repair bills. Unlike fire, which is a rare, cataclysmic event that you’ll definitely notice, water damage can build up over time, even years, until a problem that you could fix in an afternoon becomes a major disaster that will require hiring contractors and spending thousands of dollars.

Fortunately, there are some easy fixes that you can carry out yourself or with a short visit from contractors like ourselves. These won’t only prevent possible water damage, but will even add to the value of your home.

Foundation

You’d think that the solid concrete foundations of your home a rock-solid, but cracks can develop and even though it might not seem so, concrete is porous- water can go right through it.

You can waterproof and damp proof your basement, two different processes that should ideally be used together. According to building code, all you need is a dimpled membrane that stops groundwater from coming into contact with the walls and create space for the wall to ‘breathe’. However, adding full protection against both moisture and groundwater and filling in existing cracks with concrete sealant should protect you, with little upkeep in future.

Roof

This is your first line of protection against water damage, and unless you want to break out pots and pans to collect drips from the ceiling you’ll need to get it perfect. Make sure that chimneys, skylights and plumbing vents are properly sealed- and keep making sure, as they can crack over time. You’ll also need to check that shingles haven’t cracked and that your seals are sealed. In winter you should make sure that ice dams aren’t forming on your roof- these are walls of ice and snow that collect at the edge of the surface of your roof which prevent snow from running off, trapping water and causing costly damage.

Exterior Walls

As with the foundation, following building codes won’t get you the complete protection you’ll need. The concrete that your walls are made of can be mixed with substances that will make it waterproof and the exterior walls can be wrapped in an plastic sheet- you’ve probably seen blue Tyvek and Typar wraps around new buildings. If you have an older building you probably don’t have the same protection as a modern home, so contact a contractor to see what you need to be bought up to speed.

Gutters

They’re no fun to clean, but your gutters and drains need to be kept free of obstructions or you risk them either breaking or your drains overflowing and creating a pool of standing water that can get into your walls or basement. You’ll also want to make sure that the metal gutters in older buildings aren’t corroded- if so you might consider replacement.

Windows and Doors

Wooden door and window frames can swell in wet weather, and improperly installed windows and doors can let in moisture. Sealing them can be as simple as applying silicone, or could involve getting new doors and windows. Modernizing these won’t just improve waterproofing, but improve your home’s aesthetics and energy efficiency.

Given how disastrous a water leak can be and how much can value can be added from modernizing to waterproof your home, it’s hard to argue that it’s something that you can put off. If you’re lucky, a recently-built home should have good waterproofing already, whereas an older home could have dozens of problems that could cost thousands to fully fix. You’ll only know the extent of the repairs and upgrades that need to be made by calling and having a professional check your home for areas that can be improved.

There are several key signs that your air ducts need a thorough cleaning, including:

• The growth of mold inside the air ducts
• The infestation of small unwanted pests and insects in the air ducts
• If the air ducts are clogged with dust and other debris

Can Dirty Air Ducts Affect Your Health?

• Dirty air ducts decreases the quality and cleanliness of your indoor home environment – Keeping air ducts clean has been proven to stop some serious health issues from occurring. The cleaning of air ducts improves the overall health of all family members. Medical research studies have proven that the health of patients suffering from pulmonary health conditions improved when air ducts were cleaned frequently.
• Dirty air ducts are the common cause of allergies, sore throat, colds and coughing – Dirty air ducts lower the quality of air in your house, promoting the circulation of allergens and other bacteria in the air. People with asthma and other allergies are the most likely to become sick; this is especially true with kids and the elderly. This is the main reason why these air ducts should be cleaned especially when expecting newborns who are normally sensitive.
• Dirty air ducts causes the “sick building syndrome” – When the air ducts are not cleaned, pet dander, dust, pollen, and other allergens get stuck in the ducts. These allergens accumulate over time and when the air ducts are used, these allergens are blown around and distribute throughout the building. Breathing this polluted air may not cause allergies to some people but in the long run, it may cause other severe respiratory disease.
• Dirty air ducts can speed up the aging process – Do you ever feel tired and you don’t know why? It’s likely that you are breathing from contaminated air originating from ducts that haven’t been cleaned in months. Apart from causing serious health problems, this contaminated air also speeds up the aging process.
• Dirty air ducts are inhabited by rodents and insects – These unwanted rodents and insects are not only a nuisance but a serious health threat. These rodents and insects often carry disease, bite, get into your home, and even eat your food.
• Dirty air ducts cause odors – The presence of mildew and mold in your air ducts can bring a musty odor in your home. It may become less noticeable to you once you have been exposed to it for an extended period. However, it will be noticeable to any guests you invite to your home.
• Dirty air ducts disables efficient functioning of home ventilation and cooling systems (HVAC) – Dirt and debris can impede the efficient functioning of these systems. When these systems stop functioning, the air is no longer filtered. You can end up breathing in more contaminated air and therefore increasing your chances of becoming sick.

Benefits of Regular Air Duct Cleaning

Cleaning your air ducts are an important part of home ownership and building maintenance. If you think your HVAC system is not operating at peak efficiency, it is recommended to get the ducts inspected and cleaned. If you are out of your element when it comes to cleaning your ducts.

If you are allergic or sensitive to mould, you may develop a stuffy nose, irritated eyes, wheezing or difficulty with breathing or skin irritation. People with weakened immune systems and with chronic lung diseases may be susceptible to infections.

Do not dry brush the mouldy area, as the brush can flick spores into the air where they may be breathed in. If you vacuum mould-affected areas, only vacuum using a HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filter. A HEPA filter is a type of filter that can trap large amounts of very small particles, which other vacuum cleaners would simply put back into the air.

If you’ve decided to remove mould, make sure there is good ventilation and wear protective clothing, such as a shower cap, rubber gloves, eye protection, overalls, suitable footwear and a P1 or P2 face mask (available from your hardware store).

Before deciding to wear a face mask, consider that:

• They can be hot and uncomfortable to wear.
• If the seal around the face and mouth is poor (for example, people with beards may not get a good seal), the face mask is much less effective.
• They can make it harder for you to breathe normally, so anyone with a pre-existing heart or lung condition should seek medical advice before using them.

If you are asthmatic and intend to do the clean-up work, keep your asthma medication with you at all times. If you show any signs of asthma, get some fresh air and follow your asthma action plan.

Steps for mould removal at home

There are three steps you can take when removing mould at home, including removing the source of moisture, removing the mould and preventing mould regrowth.

Remove the source of moisture

Mould will only grow in damp unventilated rooms. Check for sources of water from damaged pipes and drains and call a plumber if repairs are required.

Remove the mould

Wash clothing, bedding and other soft fabric articles, such as soft toys, in a washing machine on a hot cycle. Wash all the clothes you used for cleaning up separately to other clothes.

Other contaminated soft furnishings that cannot be put in a washing machine will have to be cleaned professionally. If this is not possible, they may need to be thrown out.

Thoroughly clean all affected hard surfaces. In many cases, household detergent can do the job if it is used correctly. Check the product’s label to see how much to use and on which surfaces they can be used. Do not mix detergents with bleaches, together in the same bucket, as this may release hazardous fumes. Apply the cleaner and give it time to work before you mop or sponge it up.

After cleaning a room or item, go over it again with an antibacterial disinfectant to kill germs and to remove any smells.

Prevent mould regrowth

Mould sometimes grows back after cleaning. If small areas of regrowth occur, treat them with either:

• vinegar solution (one part vinegar to three parts water)
• tea tree oil (two teaspoons in two cups in water)
• hydrogen peroxide solution (use as per label directions).

If large areas of mould regrowth occur, consult a mould remediation professional.

To reduce the chance of mould regrowth, it is important to dry the area where the mould grew. The simplest way to dry a room is to open doors and windows to thoroughly air the house.

While it might be tempting to spray your whole place with bleach (that makes things “clean,” right?), a lot of common household cleaning products are actually pretty toxic to our health. Luckily, there are alternative ways to keep things fresh and sanitary. Read on for the low-down on cleaning every area of the home, DIY style.

Ditching the Dirt—The Need-to-Know

The Environmental Protection Agency ranks indoor air pollution among the top environmental dangers, and much of this pollution comes from common cleaning products (or what we’ll call “indoor pollutants”). Immediate effects of exposure to indoor pollutants can include headaches, dizziness, fatigue, and irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, as well as exacerbated symptoms of asthma and other respiratory illnesses. Long-term effects (following long or repeated exposure to indoor pollutants) include respiratory diseases, heart disease, and even cancer. The indoor pollutants that can cause these reactions are so common that the EPA strongly recommends everyone improve the air quality of their home, regardless of whether symptoms are currently present. In other words, these pollutants are pretty whack.

Despite the consequences of exposure to indoor air pollutants, the government doesn’t regulate or assess the safety (or even labeling) of the vast majority of cleaning products on the market. The EPA, meanwhile, only regulates cleaners that contain registered pesticides. This means that consumers are basically on their own when it comes to choosing safe cleaning products—a task that’s way easier said than done. (For reviews of the toxicity of 200 hundred household cleaners, check out the Environmental Working Group’s database.).

Luckily, chemical-laden cleaning products aren’t the only means to keep a home sparkly. Non-toxic homemade cleaning products aren’t only better for us; they can also help save us money and protect the environment. Making your own products cuts down on packaging waste and reduces the release of household chemicals that can contribute to air and water pollution. The best news? The majority of the most powerful cleaning products may well already be on our pantry shelves.

So Fresh and So Clean—Meet the Star Players

Before we get to the cleaning, let’s check out some of the most common (and most useful) non-toxic cleaning products.

Baking Soda

Baking soda is a pantry staple with proven virus-killing abilities that also effectively cleans, deodorizes, brightens, and cuts through grease and grimeTrusted Source.

Castile Soap

Castile soap is a style of soap that’s made from 100 percent plant oils (meaning it uses no animal products or chemical detergents). Popularized by the Dr. Bronner’s line of products, castile cuts through grease and cleans.

Vinegar

Thanks to its acidity, vinegar is nothing short of a cleaning wunderkind—it effectively (and gently!) eliminates grease, soap scum, and grime.

Lemon Juice

Natural lemon juice annihilates mildew and mold, cuts through grease, and shines hard surfaces (It also smells awesome.).

Olive Oil

This good-for-you cooking oil also works as a cleaner and polisher.

Essential Oils

Essential oils have gained popularity thanks to aromatherapy, but these naturally occurring plant compounds also make great scent additions to homemade cleaning products (particularly if you’re not into the smell of vinegar). Essential oils are generally considered safe, but these extracts can trigger allergies—so keep this in mind when choosing scents.

Borax

Many DIY cleaners tout Borax (a boron mineral and salt) as a non-toxic alternative to mainstream cleaning products; however, the issue is pretty hotly debated. Some research suggests Borax can act as a skin and eye irritant and that it disrupts hormones. For this list, we’ve chosen to avoid products that use Borax.

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A note on mixing products: Most of these ingredients can be used in combination with each other; however, many sources advise against mixing castile soap with vinegar or lemon juice. Since castile soap is basic (i.e., high on the pH scale) and vinegar and lemons are acidic, the products basically cancel each other out when used in combination (though it’s fine to wash with a base—like castille soap—and rinse with an acid—like vinegar!).

Cleaning Recipes for Every Surface

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Note: Many of these cleaners can be used in multiple places, but we’ve assigned them to particular areas for easy reference.

Bathroom

1. Toilets

For a heavy-duty toilet scrub that deodorizes while it cleans, pour ½ cup of baking soda and about 10 drops of tea tree essential oil into the toilet. Add ¼ cup of vinegar to the bowl and scrub away while the mixture fizzes.

For daily cleaning, fill a small spray bottle with vinegar (about 1 cup should do it) and a few drops of an essential oil of your choosing (lemon and tea tree both work well). Spray on the toilet seats, let it sit for a few minutes, and then wipe the surface clean.

2. Tub and Shower

Tubs and showers can produce some of the toughest grime, but it’s no match for the cleaning power of vinegar. To get rid of mildew, spray pure white vinegar on the offending area, let it sit for at least 30 minutes, and then rinse with warm water (don’t be afraid to use a sponge if rinsing doesn’t clear away the grossness on its own). Alternatively, try mixing together baking soda with a bit of liquid castile soap, then scrub and rinse.

For daily cleaning or to get rid of soap scum, mix 1 part water with 1 part vinegar (and a few drops of essential oils if you’re not into the smell of vinegar) in a spray bottle. Spray, let it sit for at least several minutes, and then wipe away.

3. Disinfectant

Skip the bleach and make a homemade germ-killer instead. Just mix 2 cups of water, 3 tablespoons of liquid soap, and 20-30 drops of tea tree oil. Voila!

4. Air Freshener

Defeat less-visible bathroom “uncleanliness” with this homemade, non-toxic air freshener. All you need is baking soda, your favorite essential oil, and an old jar with a lid you don’t mind poking holes in (follow the link for full instructions).

5. Hand Soap

Once you’re done cleaning the bathroom, it’s time to make yourself clean (or at least your hands). To make a non-toxic, foaming hand soap, mix together liquid castile soap and water (and an essential oil if you feel like it) in a foaming soap dispenser. Fill about one fifth of the bottle with soap, then top it off with water.

Kitchen

6. Countertops

For a simple, all-purpose counter cleaner, mix together equal parts vinegar and water in a spray bottle. If your countertop is made from marble, granite, or stone, skip the vinegar (its acidity is no good for these surfaces) and use rubbing alcohol or the wondrous power of vodka instead.

7. Cutting Boards

Talk about non-toxic: All that’s needed to clean and sanitize cutting boards (wood or plastic) is… a lemon! Cut it in half, run it over the surfaces, let sit for ten minutes, and then rinse away. If you need some serious scrubbing power, sprinkle some coarse or Kosher salt over the board, and then rub with ½ a lemon.

8. Oven

To clean stubborn, caked-on food out of the oven, just heat the over to 125 degrees and grab your spray bottle of vinegar (see “countertops” above). Once the oven is warm, spray the caked-on stuff until it’s lightly damp and then pour salt directly onto the affected areas. Turn off the oven, let it cool, and then use a wet towel to scrub away at the mess. If that doesn’t cut it, follow the same instructions but try use baking soda in place of salt (just let it sit for a few minutes before scrubbing).

9. Garbage Disposal

This one is so cool. Pour 1 cup of vinegar into an ice cube tray and top off the slots with water. Once they’re frozen, toss a few down the disposal and let it run—doing so should remove any food that was stuck to the blades.

10. Microwave

It’s easy to overlook the microwave while cleaning, but man can it get gross in there. To combat the gunk, pour some vinegar into a small cup and mix in a little lemon juice (exact amounts don’t really matter). Put the cup in the microwave, let the microwave run for 2 minutes, and leave the door closed for several more minutes. Finally, open the door and simply wipe down all the sides with a warm cloth or sponge—no scrubbing required!

11. Sink Drain

To unclog a stuffed-up drain, start by boiling about 2 cups of water. Pour ½ cup of baking soda into the drain, and then add the water while it’s still nice and hot. If that doesn’t do the trick, follow the baking soda with ½ cup of vinegar, cover it up tightly (a pot lid should work nicely), wait until the fizzing slows down (when baking soda and vinegar come in contact, they’ll react by fizzing) and then add one gallon of boiling water.

12. Pan De-Greaser

To cut through the grime on frying pans, simply apply some salt (no water necessary) and scrub vigorously.

13. Cast-Iron Pans

Kitchen professionals are pretty against using soap, steel wool, or dishwashers to clean cast-iron pans. Luckily, there’s an alternative way to tackle cast-iron grossness: combine olive oil and a teaspoon of coarse salt in the pan. Scrub with a stiff brush, rinse with hot water, and you’re done!

14. Dishwasher Detergent

If you’re lucky enough to have a dishwasher, simply mix together 1 cup of liquid castile soap and 1 cup of water (2 teaspoons of lemon juice optional) in a quart-size glass jar.Add some of this mixture to one detergent compartment of the dishwasher, and fill the other compartment with white vinegar.

15. Dish Soap

If washing dishes by hand, simply combine 1 cup of liquid castile soap and 3 tablespoons water (a few drops of essential oil optional) in a bottle of your choice. Shake well and use like you would any other dish soap.

16. Refrigerator Cleaner

To clean what is perhaps the toughest of all kitchen “gross spots,” reach for the baking soda. Add about ½ cup of the white stuff to a bucket of hot water. Dip a clean rag in the mixture and use it to wipe down the fridge’s insides.

17. Bleach

For serious disinfectant power, mix ½ cup baking soda, 1 teaspoon castile soap, and ½ teaspoon hydrogen peroxide. Use a cloth to apply the mixture to a wet surface, scrub, and then rinse thoroughly.

Laundry Room

18. Laundry Detergent

It’s tough to come by homemade laundry detergents that don’t use Borax, but give this one a try. The recipe calls for glycerin soap, washing soda, baking soda, citric acid, and coarse salt. For full instructions, follow the link!

19. Fabric Softener

Skip the liquid fabric softener and make clothes nice and snuggly the non-toxic way. Make a big batch of softener by adding 20-30 drops of the essential oil of your choice to a one-gallon jug of white vinegar. Add 1/3 cup to each laundry load (just be sure to shake the mixture prior to each use).

20. Laundry “Scenter”

To add a fresh, clean scent to laundry, make a sachet stuffed with your favorite dried herbs (lavender, peppermint, and lemon verbena are all great options). Toss it in the dryer while it’s in use, and voila: customized, non-toxic scent!

21. Bleach

For a nontoxic laundry bleach alternative, add some lemon juice to the rinse cycle.

Everything Else

22. Floors

For a simple, effective tile floor cleaner, simply combine one part white vinegar with two parts warm water in a bucket. Use a mop or rag to scrub down the floors with the solution. No need to rinse off! (Note: this one’s not recommended for wood floors).

23. Walls

To scrub down walls, mix ¼ cup white vinegar with 1 quart warm water, then use a rag to scrub those walls down. To remove black marks, simply scrub at the spot with a little bit of baking soda.

24. Windows and Mirrors

For an all-purpose window cleaner, combine 1 part white vinegar with 4 parts water (feel free to add some lemon juice if you’re feeling citrusy), then use a sponge or rag to scrub away.

25. Furniture Polish

For an all-purpose furniture polish, combine ¼ cup vinegar with ¾ cup olive oil and use a soft cloth to distribute the mixture over furniture. For wood furniture (or as an alternative to the first recipe), combine ¼ cup lemon juice with ½ cup olive oil, then follow the same procedure.

26. Silver Cleaner

Put silver utensils and jewelry back to good use the non-toxic way. Line a sink or bucket with aluminum foil, lay out the silver on top of the aluminum, and pour in boiling water, 1 cup of baking soda, and a pinch of salt. Let it sit for several minutes and watch as—like magic—the tarnish disappears! Note: If you’re concerned about immersing a particular item, simply rub it with toothpaste and a soft cloth, rinse it with warm water, and allow it air to dry.

27. Wood Cleaner

Clean varnished wood by combining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, 1 tablespoon of white vinegar, and a quart of warm water in a spray bottle. Spray onto wood and then dry with a soft cloth. (Note: Since olive oil can leave behind some (slippery) residue, this one might not be the best option for wood floors.)

Note: We’ve done our absolute best to provide the best information possible, but since we haven’t tried every single one of these solutions in every possible cleaning situation, we can’t vouch for them 100 percent. If you try a recipe and encounter any difficulties, let us know!